Heera Mandi – The Dream House of the Whores

Courtesy Mayank Austen Soofi

I felt like a bridegroom who had come to pick out one of the three beautiful sisters. Sitting next to each other on a blue sofa, they blushed and coquettishly glanced at us.

An old woman with a straight back and shining-white hair sat down on the floor and talked of the heat and humidity. She had a firm, commanding voice that sliced and rebuked the air with the sharp tanginess of a most refined form of spoken Urdu.

Unlike the brightly-colored and intricately designed shalwaar kameeze (Shalwar are loose trousers and the kameeze is a long shirt) of the girls, the stern woman stood apart in an off-white dress and a white netted dupatta (a scarf or covering for the head and upper body worn by women), carefully adjusted on her head.

It seemed like a cultured Muslim family, but the girls were not sisters. They were prostitutes. The old lady was not a mother looking for suitable boys for her daughters, but a pleasure-house Madam.

We were in Heera Mandi — ‘a bazaar of diamonds’ — Pakistan’s oldest red light district.

Crossing into the Red Light

Mian Naeem, a soft-spoken Lahore-based sculptor and art-critic, had agreed to take me for an excursion to Heera Mandi, a place I particularly wished to visit especially after reading an excellent book by the British author Louise Brown, The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District.

I was in Pakistan to take part in a conference for a visa-free South Asia and was tied up with a series of seminars and speeches during the day. Night was the time to explore the city and Heera Mandi had to be a necessary pilgrimage.

A Road Leading to Sin

Mian Naeem parked his vintage car outside the periphery of Heera Mandi. It was past midnight, perhaps the right time to take a dip into the secrets of the flesh.

The evening had grown slightly middle-aged. The madams and their agents were likely to be more tolerant towards pleas for cheaper bargaining. The available girls were unlucky to be picked yet and hopefully more resigned in their choice for customers. Further, the shield of the deep-night darkness made it easy to imagine that Allah would be too sleepy to notice his faithful venturing out to make sinful transactions.

The streets were crowded with the revelers of the night. Restaurants, and only restaurants, lined both the sides. The blazing fire in the tandoors, the complicated smell of chicken curry and gutter stink, the cries of the cooks, and the laughter of the diners combined to create a blurred sensation in the mind.

The path was narrow, but not straight. We climbed up and down as if walking in the old quarters of a hill resort. The people who inhabited the ancient houses in these streets looked suitably decent, making it difficult to believe we were approaching a red light district.

The Ground Beneath Their Feet

Some more steps, then a right turn, and we walked under an open sky. “This is Heera Mandi,” Mian Naeem declared.

A crowd of boys cheered in a dimly lit tin-shed where a snooker table glowed under a bare light bulb. There were carts selling bananas, biryanis, and flowers. Brightly lit eateries with used chicken bones strewn on the floors were filled to the brim.

There was no lady standing under the lampposts soliciting clients. There was no man acting like a lady’s agent. The shaky, frail-looking structures rising up on both sides of the street ahead were gloomily submerged in darkness. Their doors and windows were closed and the balconies were sullen and quiet.

We walked ahead and noticed an alley to the right. Two women stood a short distance away, whispering to each other. Their faces were cloaked with shadows. A thin man with a garland of chameli flowers wrapped around his wrists appeared from behind and overtook us with drunken steps.

Gradually the darkness began to lose its sheen. The street became livelier. As we penetrated deeper more doors were found open and more windows gave view to the lighted spaces inside. Mian Naeem pointed across to a room jutting out into the pathway. It had a large window and a most beautiful creation was peeking out from there.
She looked divine and more beautiful than the Indian actress Aishwarya Rai. With a pimple-free fair complexion and fine shaped lips, her eyes expressed eagerness and her hands signaled invitation. Her steps were as light as a bird as she hurried from the window towards the door.

Dressed in a white lehenga (a long embroidered skirt) and her anklet bells jingling music every time she moved, she looked all set to burst into a mujra (traditional dance of the courtesans). There were no creams, rouge, eyeliners, and powders disfiguring her face. A mild shade of maroon suggested the promise of a kiss from her slightly pouted lips.

Tempted by a Dancing Girl

Our eyes met and her face simmered of sentiments that suggested my walking away would break her heart. She looked pure, gracious, and yet highly amorous. It seemed as if I was the wine she was thirsting for all her life.

Mian Naeem said her name was Saira, that she used to be quite coveted in her time. Now, Saira was in her 30s and her business had gone down. Unlike in the past when she picked out only the handsome and the very wealthy, she presently took in any person who walked by her quarters. The revelation was disappointing. That she had singled me out was unremarkable in light of this information.

More Sight Seeing

Three unshaven boys, looking hip in their long hair, sat in a shop that had its walls adorned with posters of Gone with the Wind and Casablanca. Guitars, electronic keyboards, and drums were placed haphazardly on a wooden counter. It was a rock music band that accompanied the ladies in the private dance parties, a popular trend in upper class Lahore.

Until a few years back, Heera Mandi was acclaimed for its musical heritage. It boasted a rich tradition of Indian classical music and indeed many famous singers of the subcontinent were born, groomed, and trained in its chambers.

Adjacent to this rock band was the sitting room where Mian Naeem had taken me to have a look at the ‘three sisters.’ The ragged-faced agent who stood outside suggested a girl of our choice could perform a Bollywood dance for five hundred rupees. After we took leave of the ‘three sisters,’ Mian Naeem mentioned there were higher prices for other kind of performances.

Indeed, the highest possible price was always demanded for the betrothal of a virgin. Deflowering involved rituals that were not different from the ceremonies demanded by a proper marriage. Large sums were paid by the ‘groom.’ Feasts were thrown by the madam-mother and blessings were offered to the girl as she prepared for her initiation into the world’s most ancient profession.

Usually the most beautiful had their virginity sold to the rich sheikhs and princes of countries like Saudi Arabia and Bahrain where they were flown and their temporary living arrangements paid for by their ‘husbands.’

As we walked past more such sitting rooms, Mian Naeem pointed out the agents and provided tips on how to identify them. In many places, the rooms were closed from the front but there were camouflaged entrances from the sides. On one of the balconies lounged a bare-chested man while below the lady of the house was eyeing the prospective clients. A little ahead, brightly dressed women were quickly settling themselves in a cab that, according to Mian Naeem, would take them to the apartments of rich Lahori men.

The Unreal Reality

It was strange walking in the by-lanes of Heera Mandi. Officially, Pakistan is an Islamic republic where prostitution is punishable by death and where most of the women do not show their naked face to any male except their closest relatives.

Yet we were in a neighborhood, in the heart of Lahore, which seemed to have been frozen in time. It was as if the outer rules of the much real world could not intrude here. No one seemed to be bothered by the laws that were applicable in the rest of the city.

Heera Mandi was like a paradise where one could freely indulge himself in the pleasures of the flesh, where one could get away from the oppressed world of Shariat laws and Koranic injunctions; a balm which one could apply to soothe his soul made claustrophobic by so many morals; a relief which one could momentarily cherish amidst a life made predictable and burdensome by nagging spouses and aged parents.

Heera Mandi was a world far away from the despairing headlines of Islamic fundamentalism, America’s war on terrorism, and Bin laden videos. It was a world very different from all the known worlds. Heera Mandi was an easy place where life was unreal and where it was possible to experience unconditional love and fanciful sex — for a price.

The Tragic Face of the Pleasure District

But of course Heera Mandi is a pleasure house only in its false description. It is actually a mirage that has the power to destroy the lives of both its residents and its visitors.

Attractive prostitutes like Saira might be able to hide their true age and be familiar with all the seductive charms for trapping gullible boys, but they are done with once their bloom is lost. From there it is a downhill journey towards a life plagued by poverty, despair, and loneliness.

Most of the Heera Mandi prostitutes share the same miserable end. These women who had once sold their virginity for thousands of dinars to rich gulf state sheikhs finally slip down to a stage where ten rupees is their demand price (which could be further bargained) for hurried services with poor vegetable vendors. There could not be more poignant irony.

Some prostitutes, fortunate to give birth to beautiful daughters, do live a luxurious life of rich madams, but still the melancholy of their old age could not be wished away.

The Twilight Days of Heera Mandi

Happily, the morally righteous have reasons to smile. These are the final days of Heera Mandi. The place has started decaying like a rotten corpse. What had started off as a pampered district built next to a Mughal fort now lies uncared for in a filthy part of old Lahore.

Once upon a time, Mughal princes courted its virgins. The wealthy culture-loving families, from the feudal estates of North India, used to send their young sons to be trained under the guidance of the Heera Mandi ladies. They were expected to learn the style of fine Urdu conversation, to appreciate the nuances of Hindustani classical music and to get well versed in the art of lovemaking.

Once upon a time the ladies here were more sophisticated than the women of the most respected and rich families of the land. But now an eclipse has set in.

Times have changed. Heera Mandi is merely another red light district. Girls are patronized for quick sex sessions rather than for their poetry recitation. Courtesans have become call girls. Eminent people, with claims to middle-class respectability, no longer desire to be seen strolling in its streets. Even the ladies’ chambers are shutting down.

The pleasure ladies are gradually leaving Heera Mandi quarters for the modern secretive flats of Defense and Gulberg. The thrill of midnight cruising is being replaced by deals made over mobile phones. A world is coming to an end, soon to be gone with the wind. Heera Mandi will become a fable, a fantasy, a dream house of the whores.

Epilogue

On our way back we stopped in a mud-built shack to have sweet, milky cardamom-flavored tea with oily fried goat testicles.

The night was growing old. The noise was quieting down. And the shadows were growing larger.

First published at Blogcritics.

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55 responses to “Heera Mandi – The Dream House of the Whores

  1. Debraj Mookerjee

    just back from lahore myself. a visitor from india i was, and therefore the significance is sharper. nice blog. but hello, the purdah is not vsiible anywhere in Lahore. fundamentalism is shunned, and deeply so. most thinking pakistanis totally hate Bush, but hey equally vehemently shun the fundamentalist ‘mullah’ (of the hate mongering type). your blog seem to suggest heera mandi offered a haven within the generally oppressive regime of sharia in the city of lahore. may be it was a stylistic thing — to highlight in relief the standoutness, as it were, of heera mandi. but the wrong impression could go through. and mind you, thisd is an indian speaking, not a pakistani ;)

  2. Well written article. I can see how Author has promoted yet identified the misery faced by the girls of that Area. Also I can see how author has shown his respect for Quran and Islamic Law. Every place has its sanctity I agree but places like this should not exist. For visitors its fun and for the visited it’s a life of disgrace and humility. Why do we make life so difficult for a particular gender that they have to indulge themselves in such a shame.
    I refuse to acknowledge that this is because it should be. Something need to be done to help these sisters to give them the confidence that they can live a well respected life. We as humans and especially Muslims are to be blamed for Hira-Mandi and suffering of our sisters. May Allah guide us and help us in creating a true Islamic state where there is no place for this suffering and support is given to avoid such false paradise.

  3. History is a lesson
    I would like to say only one thing to the commentator above, there is found no place where you can not find prostitutes. Never try to eliminate them as most of them do it out of free will and find other ways to do their job. Gen.Zia tried this by implying different bans on them and after that they are everywhere. Isn’t history a lesson for us?

  4. prostitutes play an important role SPECIALLY in a society like ours where the average male is sexually frustrated.

    the need for prostitution arises from humans need for CASUAL SEX.

    some men have the ability to seduce normal regular women at their college, workplace, neighbourhood and fulfill this CASUAL SEX need.

    but unfortunately majority of men cannot do that and are automatically at a disadvantage. how will they fulfill their needs?

    also when it comes to casual sex and affairs women are very SELECTIVE. an average guy cannot expect to flirt and have casual sex with an average girl because if the average girl wanted casual sex ….she could simply go to a higher standard man and get it.

    so prostitution is natural.

  5. do what ever you do,just sue condoms,dont make MAKRS of your sins lol

  6. hey JOJO wtf do you mean “dont make makrs of your sins”

    is it only a sin when a guy goes to a hooker. is it not a sin when the other guys flirt with girls, go to dance parties, have casual affairs and make out with girls.(you probably have many such guys in your circle of friends, in your college/workplace etc.

    you do not raise a finger at them. you do not call them sinners. what they are doing is equally HARAM. then why you only point a finger at a guy who goes to a hooker to meet his needs.

    just because the former type of guys are goodlooking and rich and have the PROPER channels to do the stuff with normal girls.

  7. lahore lahore a.mwah i love it

  8. by the m a new internet user
    mwah to all Pakistanies

  9. I refuse to acknowledge that this is because it should be. Something need to be done to help these sisters to give them the confidence that they can live a well respected life. We as humans are to be blamed for Hira-Mandi and suffering of our sisters.
    i totally agree with umar butt above comments so if we want to help them to keep out such type og ugly things on which most of prostitutes are not responsible(i will explain it by the following poetry……
    *jurm maira yeh hai keh main tawaif ki houn baiti
    maa baap kay marnay say bhi hawalay nhn jatay*
    2nd is,
    nasran e shehr say dur dur kay,
    youn jiyay ja rahi houn roz mur mur kay,
    roz milta nhn hai ghr apna,
    roz miltay hai loug ghur ghur kay*)
    we have to think collectively not just think but to do something to decrease and solve this fucking human trade.so indivisual like me announce with the whole commitment i will try my best to marry with some prostitute to keep away from this cruel atmosphere which exactly they(prostitutes) are not faulted for .
    i would suggest a book on this to[ic aurat aur bazaar by munir ahmad to read.u will found a great book.if any body regarding so called prostitutes(whole society is responsible for their such conditions)some questions i will glad to answer them.
    my email address is,
    imtiaz_nasir544@yahoo.com

  10. Hi, I am really surprised and shocked to read this article and comments from the readers.

  11. like many other men have needs that that must be fullfilled. thats why i go to prostitutes.
    i belive i would not have a problem sedusing a girl, but if i do so then i would be blacklisted by my familie.
    therefor i have to faces one i show my family and friends, and the other that i show to prostitutes.
    i feel no compasion to those who have fallen from grace, and grown old and ugly.
    after all why shoud i ?
    they are after all payed good for there service, if they can not save money for the times to come, then its there problem not mine.
    i know i will burn in hell, and all that as i do belive in god.
    the time will come when i have to answer for my sins. but until that day i will cuntinue to indulge in the sin of flesh.

    TO KNOW WHAT IS GOOD THERE HAS TO BE EVIL

  12. my lahore is very beutifull city

  13. To the best of my knowledge, now a days there is more fraud in Heera Mandi. Visitors go there and negotiate for what they want. After that service provider call for Police and visitor has to get rid out of this by only paying both Police and service provider. So be careful.

  14. there should be no fear for visitors who visit the heera mandi bazar.i just need a theif who can help me.i want to stole a thing so plz contact with me

  15. it is only the ground for sin.where theb people go for satisfaction, even though they have wives, but no satisfaction in the end

  16. whan majbori,bhook,ghurbat,lachari,bebasi, or bohat kuch hay dakhnay ko per agar dimaghsay hera mandi ka concept change ho jae

  17. when i read dancing girls of lahore i was swayed away from misery of those women surviving hard in the sin city and so is the writer of this article seemed to be inspired ….but i like to add here thati believe that the concept of bazar is no more mainstream culture due to the fact that vulgarity and ribaldism are prevalent in our society,concept of infidelity has guarded its roots in our higher class and it seems faddish to hook around with other men and women .Unfortunately on the other hand low and middle class are also indulge in casual sex with kin and kith.the crux is that prositution is no more taboo,its just that honoured people of our society tagged them as’ bone of contension’ just to hide truth behind the veils ……..i belive that even a girl having boyfriend should be a prositute ………if we see in the eye of islam.

  18. Yep — Dun now y Hera Mandi ka concept logon ne itna bura le lia hai .. Naam suntay h Sex mind me le atay hain sab…. :p :D

  19. yar i wana to b there
    03125136271 cntct me

  20. This is all shit. KEep your self engaged to build your own future and give damm to others. When you succeed every thing will look beautiful and if you don’t then everything will look colorless my dear.

  21. hi to all girls any grl is hare simply sms me now

  22. as i seen lahore this is the

  23. I wonder y people above are calling hera mandi pros’s their sisters…lolzzzz….Emotional Fools!! :-)

  24. I’m gonna write a book on what are the reasons behind it.

  25. And now you can order these whores online at:
    pakistanescorts4dating.com

  26. Civilization is exclusive and linked with availability of all entities in a region, the percentage of rape is so high in the areas where there is no prostitution house, to think positively heera mandi is good

  27. Its not limited to Heera Mandi anymore.
    Now those whores have moved to all places of Lahore.

  28. please call at night.

  29. I like to help those ladies to whom they accused from the human which they look like a human but they are animals.

  30. I read this Article. A master piece of beautifully woven words and phrases but it is far from reallity. I live in lahore since 30 Years. I passed all my youth here and never visited this place. Decent citizens of Lahore dont go to this area. Heera mandi is a history, a story of past. which no more exist. This article is an attempt of defaming Pakistan and Islam by a rogue westerner. nothing else.

  31. this is real tragic that one fine balance article get this type of comments. it is the mirror image of our male domain. simply we do not want to wipe out this social problem. basically and frankly speaking heera mandi’s is everywhere. difference is dignity. human should be respected and those who are making fun out of this black hole, this people are responsible for heera mandi. because we make fun of females, prostitute and they give birth to all of us. in this contrast every woman is prostitute.

  32. Its is not the thing , he is trying to describe…People have thought of enjoying themselves only in sex articles to engage themselves in such activities and nothing else.

  33. Pingback: Pakistani protest music: alive and well in times of turmoil | wrongmog

  34. I would blame these mother fucker politicians for all these wrong doings because if they cannot resolve real issues that concern people then why are they there.People give too much respect to politicians ,just because they have wealth.Slave mentality.

  35. I’m 21, studying Media Sciences. Ever since I was a kid I’ve been hearing of this place. We shifted to Lahore last month, and I’ve been aching to witness the phenomenon, to document it, to discover what I don’t know and verify what I do. I wish dad would just let me… :)

  36. Like ur effortx Hassan Ahmed .. N simply a gud article explorin da real world inside lahore !!

  37. PAKISTAN SHOULD IMMEDIATELY REMOVE ‘ISLAMIC’ FROM IT’S OFFICIAL NAME.

  38. FUCK THE PAKIS

    Lahore means La Whore.

  39. your blog is so cool! I dont suppose Ive read anything like this before. So nice to find somebody with some original thoughts on this subject. realy thank you for starting this up. your website is something that is needed on the web, someone with a little originality. useful job for bringing something new to the internet!

  40. Pingback: Stories of sex-workers in Heera Mandi, Lahore and beyond | Lahore Nama

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  43. I like the good people who work for the muslim comunity.

  44. Heera Mandi is part of the old Lahore.in the year 1977 some urban &Town planner team came to investigae & survey the deteriorating state of the Walled city. We met sme oftheir business women too. These highly qualified team was from University College of London (UK) themiserable state of Ater supply to drainage, Road & Walk ways conditions, Shrines inside the densely populated area & an examplewere recorded where three generation were living in a room of 12″ X14′. Physically impossible to beleive that 20 people can live ins shift only as their buffalo were tied outside, the Dying garment business &Dawa Khana (Pharmacy &Dr.Clinic ) is 10feet away. SO despite of this miserable living most resident wanted to remain there. You know why because their home, their children school & Workplace is within the one mile circumfrence. So no hastle for the trafffic jam or peculiar neighbor , no fear for the robbing of yourbelonging, every one knowtheotherin the neighborhood. NCA Architects student & teacher were part of this survey. The objective was to REDEVELOP this walled city where the population densisty isamazing & very high. Each year the fifth year Student from NCA Lahore write & DESIGN NEW ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN STRATEGIES in their thesis giving realistic (sometime unrealistic)solution to this walled city, but authorities & Town hall pays no attention to this historic part of LAH-WHORE. Once this walled city is re developed the prostituition or mimickering will disappear by itself. Truly there are business women every wherein LAHORE so why accuse & Allure other to HAVE A HERI MANDI OR NOT.. Go with the re devleopment of this part &this curse will disperse by itself.

  45. Zamana qadeem main bhi yeh kaam hota aya haiy or aab modren era main is ko Europe main is ka maqam yani is ko Industry ka darja diya gaya hai , in ko hamain ya in ki zarorton ko mady nazar rakhty hoy in k liye kisi bhi trah ka rozgar ka tariqa kar tiyar karna ho ga warnah yeh itni bori daldal hai k nai naslain or aany wali koom bhi is ka hisa ho gi Dua karta hoon yeh log khud is kaam say kata tailuq kar lain Ameen

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